What I love about the Mustang GT is that I bought a car with an awesome engine and the options to upgrade it and customize it as I want. Yes, stock the Mustang has some downfalls (soft suspension, body roll, stamped steel parts….) but it means that over time I am customizing my car to suit my needs and my driving requirements.
Although a Mustang without an independent rear suspension will never cling to the road the way many of the Japanese makes it, I also get to drive a muscle car with 420hp! The best part is being part of this process as I upgrade my car and understanding how a sway bar affects the drive and testing said sway bar at different stiffness settings. It’s a learning process that teaches me more about my car and also about driving. (I’ll get to this in another post, but suffice to say that I learned a lot about my car in AutoX this past weekend.)
Step 1: Jack up the Mustang.
Step 2: Remove front wheels. (This is very helpful, we only did this halfway through and then put them back on…only to have to remove them again.)
Step 3: Remove oil filter cover.
Step 4: Remove radiator brace (6 bolts and 2 nuts). (We used a box cutter to cut a hole to see the second forward bolt on each side…it wasn’t worth the effort of removing the whole thing. See image above.)
Step 5: Disconnect sway end links.
Step 6: Remove end links from car.
Step 7: Remove nuts from sway bar mount brackets (4 nuts)
Step 8: Remove sway bar from Mustang.
Step 9: Pry mount brackets from the OEM sway bars cold dead body… (requires a mallet and pry/screwdriver to separate the two…)
Step 10: Beat with a hammer until it becomes a pancake.
Step 11: Check proper bushing size on both the sway bar and the mount brackets before greasing. (My 2014 Mustang GT needed the larger bushings).
Step 12: Grease bushings and place on sway bar (be sure the openings are the same direction, i.e. both up or down).
Step 13: Carry sway bar to car and put in position.
Step 14: Add brackets (you will need to put the pancaked plates on their screws first and then lift the rest of the bracket/sway bar into position). (Be sure to stay clear of brake lines as otherwise you will waste time pulling it off the car again… Also you will find there is less space under the passenger side of the car than the driver’s side.)
Step 15: Screw together brackets (4 bolts).
Step 16: Add links. (Multiple items here, be sure to place them in the instructed order).
Step 17: Adjust links once you have chosen the stiffness setting. Both links should be vertically aligned.
Step 18: Once you have adjusted the links evenly, be sure that the sway bar sits parallel to the ground (keeping in mind that the car is currently raised on jacks).
Step 19: Make sure both links are adjusted to the same length.
Step 20: Lock adjuster nuts.
Step 21: Add ___ locks to sway bar.
Step 22: Return brace (6 bolts + 2 nuts)
Step 23: Return wheels and torque to correct setting.
Step 24: Return oil filter cover.